Skin

1. Basecoat with Pale Flesh
2. Spray diluted Olive Green from the bottom, followed by Russian Green spray in the deepest shadows. Don't overdo it around wounds, as you'll want to leave those areas light for the next step.
3. Apply diluted Velvet Red with an airbrush in and around wounds on skin. Also... add some redness on those ass cheeks!
4. Add highlights in the lightest and top parts with Pistachio , then define lightest higlights with Pale Yellow .

Blind eyes

1. Apply diluted [AK King Purple] around the eye.
2. Glaze in white or off-white on the eyeball, use less diluted paint, so the process will take only 2-3 passes.
3. Add dot of pure white in the corner.

Mouths

1. Basecoat insides of the mouths with [AK King Purple].
2. Shade tongues with lighter and ligter values (simply add white).
3. Paint teeth with Buff .

Horns

1. Simply glaze with Rhinox Hide towards the tips, and as final steps add black on the ends of the horns.

Wounds and lesions

1. Basecoat each wound with [AK King Purple], highlight with Intense Pink or just mix of white and [AK King Purple].
2. Add a drop of airbrush consistency Pistachio in the bottom of each wound, it should be thicker than for glazing, but thinned enough to spread and deposit in recesses.
3. Paint bowels with more red color like Violet Red , then build up to Brick Red and finally highlight with Pale Flesh .
4. Glaze over small pimples on the skin with Scrofulous Brown
5. Paint large pimples/abscesses sticking from the wounds with Olive Green , then blend towards the bottom with Pistachio . Add white dot of highlight at the top.
6. For teeth on the bellies, blend from Rhinox Hide towards Buff using thin lines.

Brass elements

1. You want to create more drastic color transitions in comparison to green armor parts to show metallic character of the parts.
2. Basecoat with Rhinox Hide .
3. Start building up the color with Beasty Brown , then start adding Orange Fire to the mix. Paint sloppy with large brush to create texture.
4. Add Buff highlights.

Steel (weapons)

1. Similarly to brass parts, you want to create more more drastic color transitions.
   In case of the chainmail, all this is done with smaller and smaller edge highlighting.
2. Basecoat with Rhinox Hide to create tonal variation between cold steel and warm shadows.
3. Paint upper facing elements with slightly diluted Light Prussian Blue , you don't want too much contrast between the basecoat.
4. Add smaller areas with a mix of Light Prussian Blue and Blue Grey .
5. Finish with painting relatively large Blue Grey highlights, and add pure white in most upward facing elements to create illusion of shininess.
6. Basecoat shafts of the weapons and shields with Rhinox Hide and cover ~half of the areas with Green-Brown layer (edges and planes facing upward), then add one more layer with the mix of Green-Brown and Buff , to finally highlight the edges with Buff

Bases

1. Decay/Pestilence bases can be done by hand, or you can buy sets under those same names from Zabavka Workshop MMF.
2. Basecoat like skin with Pale Flesh .
3. Paint rims of the base toppers with Rhinox Hide and wash with diluted Rhinox Hide over whole base, to emphasize recesses.
4. Paint with wash consistency Green-Brown towards the middle, adding slight gradient to the base. Try not to cover all the dark recesses with this paint.
5. Glaze with Brick Red around any pimples, seams and more organic elements to add more life to the ground.
6. Edge highlight hard edges of the base with Buff
7. Paint any pimples/abscesses on the ground with Olive Green from the bottom to Pistachio on the top.
8. Paint tongues Brick Red and layer with mix of more and more white towards upper facing edges, but don't overdo it, you only want slight gradient, so base elements won't be fighting with the mini for attention.

Slime effect

1. ⚠️ Remember to fix the mini to the base and varnish it before adding any effects
2. If you want to add strings of slime, use some semi-hardened UHU Glue (30-60s out of the tube is great consistency). Connect multiple elements with gooey string using a toothpick.
   
   ⚠️ Important: Leave the glue to dry, because using water effects or painting over it may cause it to haze and whiten.
3. Mix water effect (for example Still Water from Vallejo) with Malignant Green around 2:1 and paint with it over larger wounds, pimples/abscesses on the ground or large ones on the skin, tongues, tentacles, strings of slime created with UHU Glue, and other organic elements.
4. Wherever you want bubbly effect, add transparent micro beads (used in nail art), or larger ones (found in silica gel packets you often see when you buy new pair of shoes for example).
5. Paint insides of smaller wounds and any small pimples you might've missed with gloss varnish, you can also blend gloss varnish into your usual (matt/satin) varnish, connecting elements covered with water effect