IMAGE IS AI, I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS YET BUT I CAN'T FIND HOW TO SET RECIPE PRIVATE.

An immaculate, polished, museum-grade metallic finish with no visible brush strokes, befitting the ultimate collector.

Body

1. Undercoat: Prime the model with a smooth, solid coat of Chaos Black
2. The Metallic Stepladder - Base: Paint the entire silver skeleton and body panels with 2 thin coats of Leadbelcher
3. The Metallic Stepladder - Layer: Layer Ironbreaker over all the metallic surfaces, leaving the darker Leadbelcher visible only in the deepest under-shadows.
4. The Metallic Stepladder - Highlight: Apply Stormhost Silver strictly to the flat panels and raised, upper surfaces. Use multiple very thin layers mixed with a drop of water to avoid leaving any brush strokes.
5. Pin-Washing: Do not splash wash all over this model. Take Nuln Oil on a fine brush and carefully drop it directly into the deep gaps—like the slots between his rib cages and the elbow/knee joints. Wipe away any accidental spills immediately with a clean, damp brush to keep the plates pristine.
6. Polished Edge Highlight: Take pure Stormhost Silver unthinned. Use the side of your brush blade to gently glide along the topmost edges of his cranium, shoulders, and fingers for a flawless reflection.
7. Dynastic Turquoise Cloak: Paint his back cape and decorative tabard with Sotek Green . Wash the recesses of the fabric with Coelia Greenshade . Layer the raised, caught folds of the cloak with Temple Guard Blue .
8. Advanced Cloak Highlight & Shade: Mix a 1:1 mix of Temple Guard Blue and White Scar , thin it heavily, and apply micro-highlights to the very tips of the fabric folds. Then, take highly thinned not DRUCHII VIOLET but something purple I guess?? and glaze it strictly into the deepest shadows of the turquoise folds to create an iridescent contrast.

Glow

1. Base: Paint the entire glowing area (weapon blade, gun coils, chest gaps, eyes) in Caliban Green .
2. First Blend: Thin down Warpstone Glow with water until semi-transparent. Paint this over 70% of the area, leaving the deep Caliban Green visible only at the very edges or back corners.
3. The Vibrant Layer: Thin down Moot Green . Paint this over the center 40% of the area, focusing heavily on where the energy is radiating from.
4. The Edge Highlight: Use pure Moot Green to sharply highlight the outer edges of the weapon blade or the rims of the gun coils.
5. The Hotspot Blend: Mix Moot Green and White Scar (1:1). Paint a small line or dot right in the center core of the light source.
6. Final Point: Place a micro-dot of pure White Scar at the absolute brightest center point.