For the cloth, I lifted/adapted a bunch of paint recipes from Eavy-Archive.com and tried my best to match them to a list of medieval dyes. I found the PDF linked from Andy Hobday's excellent "Painting the Past: Uniforms in the High Medieval Period" post on his site, if you wanted to see the original images.

My aim is to post a recipe for every colour mentioned in the PDF, eventually. This guide is an ongoing project, so if there is just a name listed below, I haven't got to it yet.

Elderberry (Leaves) & Iron

1. Basecoat with Castellan Green .
2. Take some Caliban Green and thin it with a little Lahmian Medium . use this paint toadd soft shading in the recesses.
3. Pick out all of the edges with Loren Forest .
4. Finish by selectively highlighting with Nurgling Green .

Tansy (Flowers) & Iron

1. Basecoat with Doombull Brown .
2. Add general shading to the recesses with some thinned Khorne Red .
3. Mix the Khorne Red 1:1 with some Abaddon Black use this mix to further refine the shading, using small amounts of paint.
4. Highlight the cloth with 1:1 Doombull Brown and Zamesi Desert .
5. Add smaller highlights with pure Zamesi Desert .
6. Mix the Zamesi Desert with some White then add small/specular highlights.

Tansy (Leaves)

1. Basecoat with Karak Stone .
2. Shade with Steel Legion Drab .
3. Deep shade with a 1:1 mix of Steel Legion Drab and Rhinox Hide .
4. Glaze/chunky highlight with 1:1 Karak Stone and Screaming Skull .
5. Mix some of the previous paint 1:1 with White and add fine highlights.
6. Mix your Karak Stone , Screaming Skull . and White 1:1 with more White . Now apply selective highlights with this bright paint.

Broom & Iron

Tansy (Young Leaves)

Elderberry (Unripe Berries)

1. Basecoat with Ushabti Bone .
2. Shade with 1:1 Ushabti Bone & Steel Legion Drab .
3. Shade the deepest recesses with pure Steel Legion Drab .
4. Highlight with Screaming Skull .
5. With pure White , selectively highlight.

Weld & Iron

Woad & Weld

1. Basecoat with Elysian Green .
2. Add shading with some thin Deathworld Forest .
3. Mix the Deathworld Forest 1:1 with Abaddon Black and enhance the shading in the deepest parts.
4. Highlight with 1:1 Elysian Green & Ogryn Camo .
5. Selectively highlight with Ogryn Camo .
6. With a 1:1 mix of Ogryn Camo and Ivory , add very small/specular highlights.

Gallnuts & Iron

1. Basecoat with 4:1 Abaddon Black and Kantor Blue .
2. Mix the base colour 1:1 with Administratum Grey , then highlight the cloth.
3. Increase the amount of Administratum Grey to 1:2 within the mix and highlight more selectively.
4. Finish with a few specular Grey Seer highlights.

Madder, Iron & Woad

1. Basecoat with 1:1 Dark Reaper and Skavenblight Dinge .
2. With a 1:1 mix of Dark Reaper and Abaddon Black , shade the recesses of the cloth. I like to thin this paint with Lahmian Medium to soften the shading, then do a second pass for particularly deep parts.
3. Take your Dark Reaper and Skavenblight Dinge base colour and mix it 1:1 with Administratum Grey . Now pick out edges and folds.
4. Increase the amount of Administratum Grey in the mix to roughly 1:2, then more selectively highlight.
5. Finish with a few small highlights of pure Administratum Grey .

Woad (Urine Vat)

1. Basecoat with Dark Reaper and Administratum Grey mixed 1:3.
2. Shade the recesses of the cloth with Dark Reaper . I like to thin this paint with Lahmian Medium to soften the shading, then do a second pass for particularly deep parts.
3. Take your Dark Reaper and Administratum Grey base colour and mix it 1:1 with White . Now pick out edges and folds.
4. Increase the amount of White in the mix to roughly 1:2, then more selectively highlight.
5. Finish with a few small highlights of pure White .

Woad

Gallnuts

Wallnuts (Green Husks)

Wallnuts (Green Husks)

Wallnuts (Green Husks)

Buckthorn (Bark) & Alkali

Oak (Bark)

Buckthorn (Bark)

Madder & Iron

Madder

Madder, Apples & Alkali

Madder & Copper

Madder (Fermented)

Madder & Apples

Madder, Iron & Woad

1. Basecoat with Khorne Red .
2. With a 1:1 mix of Khorne Red and Abaddon Black , shade the recesses of the cloth. I like to thin this paint with Lahmian Medium to soften the shading, then do a second pass for particularly deep parts.
3. With Wazdakka Red pick out all edges, corners and folds. You may even want to add a few scrathes on open areas, to add a little visual interest.
4. Mix your Wazdakka Red 1:1 with Karak Stone , then more selectively highlight.
5. Finish with a few small highlights of pure Karak Stone .

Weld

Celandine & Copper

Alder (Pines)

Tansy (Flowers)

Lady's Bedstraw (Flowerrs)

Broom

Gorse

Yarrow

Broom & Alkali

Madder, Iron & Alkali

Madder & Wood

Madder, Apples, Iron & Alkali

Oregano (Flowers), Malt & Apple (Leaves)

Madder & Alkali

Tormentil (Rhizomes) Fermented

Madder & Alkali

Dark Brown Leather

1. Basecoat with Rhinox Hide .
2. Add edge highlights to everything and volumetric highlights with Dryad Bark .
3. Selectively highlight with Baneblade Brown , using the big highlights from the previous stage as a guide.
4. Finish with very small Karak Stone highlights.

Drab Leather

1. Basecoat with Steel Legion Drab
2. Shade with 1:1 XV-88 and Rhinox Hide .
3. In particuarly deep recesses shade with pure Rhinox Hide .
4. Highlight with Baneblade Brown
5. Selectively highlight with Karak Stone .

Rope

1. Basecoat with Ushabti Bone .
2. Wash with a brownish contrast paint of your choice, like Skeleton Horde , Nazdreg Yellow or Aggaros Dunes .
3. Pick out small highlights with Screaming Skull .

Wood

1. Basecoat with Thondia Brown .
2. Shade with Rhinox Hide .
3. Highlight and add woodgrain with a mix of 2:1 Thondia Brown and Steel Legion Drab .
4. Take the above paint and mix it 1:1 with Administratum Grey . Now use this for fine highlights.
5. Increase the amount of Administratum Grey again, then add selective highlights.
6. Finish with a few specular highlights of pure Administratum Grey .

This is the recipe I have used on wood for all of my Barons' War miniatures. As there are only small areas of wood on most of these peasant miniatures, feel free to skip stages here and there.