The war plan for Armageddon.
Prep Work
Prime models in black and add a heavy zenithal highlight of Bright Ivory .
Use Speed Paints to base coat the major areas of the model. Speed over precision here we'll have plenty of chances for cleanup later. Nearly nothing in this step will survive to the end, but it will provide some undertones and excuses to not paint unnecessary areas. USE A BIG BRUSH.
- Ghillie Dew for the Skin. Thin down with water or flow improver to keep the coat light.
- Hardened Leather for the Pants, also thinned.
- Satchel Brown for leather straps, & metals unthinned. We'll keep the straps pretty dark and highlight with a more mid tone brown.
- Grim Black for the main Goff leathers, unthinned as we'll largely leave this untouched to save time.
- Burnished Red for mouths and red armor (e.g. helmets).
Keep the Satchel Brown around as it's useful for naturally toning stuff back & quickly hiding mistakes. But you can put away the rest of the speed paints.
Major Metals
- Keep the Hardened Leather around in the recesses as our rusted down old bits of metal.
- Over the top, roughly touch in where the metal has not worn down. Starting with Gunmetal then into Chainmail . Use Rusty Gold to some areas to break up the uniformity.
- Using very thinned Black and Satchel Brown build in gradients where desired.
- (optional) Use violet & red inks to add discoloration to weapons.
- (optional) Touch in some Orange for rust.
- Edge highlight with Chainmail and Rusty Gold both mixed with a touch of Bright Ivory .
Ork Skin
You should rush everything for most table top minis, but taking a bit of extra time to get the skin right will pay off handsomely on the final product.
- Add a green (I use Troll Snot Green ), a Yellow Ochre , Basic Skin Tone and Wine Red to your palette.
Use the Basic Skin Tone to sketch out major skin highlights. This will be the undertone for the very transparent green layers.
Use a mix of Troll Snot Green and Yellow Ochre as your main skin mix. Add a couple layers to the skin. The first should liberally cover most of the model to blend everything so far together. Additional layers to pull up to the highlights.
Mix a small amount of Basic Skin Tone into the skin color and apply light highlights to the brightest areas of the muscles.
Add some Wine Red to the skin tone to add color variation to the shadows, mouth, tongue, cheeks, nose, elbows, knuckles, and scars.
Finally, use further Basic Skin Tone mixes with the skin tone to add final highlights, scar highlights, and scratch linework.
Facial Features
- Use Basic Skin Tone to base coat teeth & nails (don't forget any teeth borrowed from other Orks!).
- Cover these areas with Smokey Ink .
- I leave the nails as is here, for any teeth add some flow improver to Basic Skin Tone and add some final highlights.
- Add some Wine Red to the skin tone mix with some Basic Skin Tone to paint the inside of the ears and any lips/nose details you need to finish.
- Use the Wine Red and Bold Pyrrole Red for the tongue.
- Grab anything from your palette to darken the eye sockets as needed.
- Paint the eyes with Bold Pyrrole Red .
- Add a glint to the eye with Bright Ivory .
Cloth
- Wet blend between Warm Brown and Cork Brown to get some basic shading into the pants.
- Add a small amount of Basic Skin Tone to the Cork Brown to add edge highlights and hatch textures.
Leather
- Use Warm Brown to bring the darkened straps up to a neutral tone, this will cover ~80% of the straps, or more as needed to cover spillover.
- Add a touch of Basic Skin Tone to the Warm Brown and add quick choice edge highlights and texture work. It doesn't need to be everything, just enough.
- Use some Black and touch up the edges of the black leather. Use a thinned Black to glaze deeper shadows into the brown leather if needed or desired.
Remaining Metals
- Add some Smokey Ink to remaining small metallic areas: strap clamps, facial jewelery, chains, and so on. For slightly larger areas (e.g. metal teeth), start with a Chainmail base coat and add the ink over top.
- Use a thinned Chainmail to highlight those small areas.
Skulls & Bones
- Base coat with Warm Brown .
- Blend up to a Bright Ivory , add some sketchy scratchy textures once you reach pure Bright Ivory . This doesn't need to be amazing, get it done quick.
Checker Boards
- Base coat the desired area with Basic Skin Tone .
- Thin Black with flow improver and sketch out and fill the checker board pattern.
- Using the Basic Skin Tone and as needed additions of Bright Ivory , add corrections and highlights to the white area of the checkerboard.
- Use a few thin layers of Smokey Ink to dirty up the checkerboard edges and integrate it into the model.
- Edge highlight the full checkerboard area with the Basic Skin Tone & Bright Ivory mix.
Hazard Stripes
- Base coat the desired area with Basic Skin Tone to undertone the yellow.
- Follow up with a Golden Yellow base coat.
- Add gradients with Orange and a bit of Smokey Ink on the edges.
- Thin Black with flow improver to sketch and fill the stripes.
- Mix some Basic Skin Tone into the Golden Yellow , thin with flow improver, and add edge highlights to the yellow stripes and the full hazard area. (optional) Sketch some scratches with this mixture as well.
Red Paint
- Base coat with a mix of Warm Brown and Brick Red .
- Blend up with pure Brick Red as the midtone.
- Add highlights with Bold Pyrrole Red .
- Use a mix of Basic Skin Tone with the Bold Pyrrole Red to edge highlight and sketch scratches.