Spectral Claws 2TC

Spectral Claws 2TC

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    13 Aug 2025
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Updating this recipe to accommodate for my own gradual replacement of citadel pots with Two Thin Coats

  1. Priming:
    I prime with Matt Black spray would be fine here, but I didn't have it when I started, and stuck to Citadel to keep things uniform as I progressed.
  2. Armour Plates:
    At this stage, I do the main armour colour all together.
    A heavy drybrush with Eidolon Grey then progressively lighter passes with Rodent Grey and Temple Stone will block in the main colour. The fabric can be done the same, as any cloth will just get contrast over this sketch later.
  3. Undersuit:
    The rubber undersuit joints get a coat of Wizard Grey followed by Gryph-charger Grey
  4. Cloth and Leather:
    As stated above, the cloth areas get 1 to 2 coats of Militarum Green over the existing drybrush.
    The leather parts get Cuirass Leather for now, returning to these later.
  5. Metal and Trim:
    The metal parts get a coat of Boar Hide , we're going for a heavily weathered effect here.
    Wash this with Oblivion Black Wash for definition, then an overbrush of Sir Coates Silver

    The trim gets a basecoat of Spartan Bronze for now.
  6. Skin and White Panels:
    The skin and the white armour panels both get 2 thin coats of Griffon Claw
  7. Wash Steps: Battle Mud Wash goes over the trim, the white panels, the leather, and the undersuit here.
    The armour panels and the metal part both get a recess shade of very watered down Dry Rust Brown . This doesn't need to be even, it's meant to make them look rusty and battered.
  8. Leather and Metal Highlights:
    The leather gets a highlight of Wasteland Brown , the metal a highlight of Plate Armour and the trim gets Battle Axe Brass at this point, and they're then complete.
  9. Skin:
    Returning to the skin, they get a coat of Elven Skin followed by a wash of Flesh Wash .
    The hair will be covered with one to two coats of Black Templar
  10. White Panels:
    The white panels get a coat of Griffon Claw , avoiding the recesses we shaded. Then, a coat of Ivory Tusk . This is washed with Archaic Sepia Wash , and then gets another coat of Ivory Tusk followed by Archaic Sepia Wash into the recesses and lines.
  11. Weathering:
    The white panels, and bits of the rest get a sponge of Cuirass Leather . Any larger blotches get a little Sir Coates Silver in the centre. On the white panels, Archaic Sepia Wash is applied around the flecks of Cuirass Leather .
    A mix of Blood For The Blood God and Typhus Corrosion is applied to the weapons, simulating dried, oxidised blood.
    Battle Mud Wash is washed over the legs from the knee down, and then a sponge of AK Interactive Wet Ground over this on the feet adds some more mud.
  12. Glow:
    The sights, eye lenses and other glowing parts are based with Ivory Tusk and then given 2 coats of Talassar Blue
  13. Basing
    AK Interactive Wet Ground is added to most of the bases, leaving some empty spots for puddles. When this dries a bit, I alternate between Dark Angels Green and Militarum Green to paint in where the puddles will be, then add Army Painter Swamp Tufts, and then AK Interactive Puddles over the green. The rims are painted Doom Death Black

Sean L

Sligg_Paints

This is more a guide I can keep referring back to more than a thing I expect anyone else to actually use :P

Citadel Painting System 7
Technical 2
  • Blood For The Blood God
  • Typhus Corrosion
Contrast 5
  • Black Templar
  • Dark Angels Green
  • Gryph-charger Grey
  • Militarum Green
  • Talassar Blue
Colour Forge
Base 1
  • Matt Black
Two Thin Coats 20
Shade 6
  • Cuirass Leather
  • Doom Death Black
  • Griffon Claw
  • Sir Coates Silver
  • Spartan Bronze
  • Wizard Grey
Midtone 5
  • Boar Hide
  • Dry Rust Brown
  • Eidolon Grey
  • Ivory Tusk
  • Plate Armour
Highlight 4
  • Elven Skin
  • Rodent Grey
  • Temple Stone
  • Wasteland Brown
Wash 4
  • Archaic Sepia Wash
  • Battle Mud Wash
  • Flesh Wash
  • Oblivion Black Wash
Metallic 1
  • Battle Axe Brass
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