How I paint my Sautekh Cryptothralls, as a text supplement to my video tutorial.
- Start by priming with silver. I used Leadbelcher here.
- Wash the entire model with Nuln Oil . I'm looking to not only darken down the recesses, but give something for the rest of my paint to stick better to. Silver primers like this tend to be smooth to the point paint can run off it!
- I next give a good drybrush with Necron Compound , or any mid silver that's brighter than your basecoat if you don't have dry paints.
- I finish the silvers with an all over edge highlight with Stormhost Silver . Turn your attention to the hard edges and sharpest points.
- For the black cable I started with an all over coat of Corax White .
- I then painted all over with Gryph-charger Grey , then again with Black Templar . I'm taking advantage of the properties of Contrast here, and aiming for blue edge highlights on a black surface. Saves having to edge them by hand more than I need to!
- I then edge highlight the ridges with Thunderhawk Blue .
- Again, but over a smaller area, with Fenrisian Grey .
- A last point highlight with Ulthuan Grey .
- The purple cable I based entirely with Daemonette Hide first.
- I washed with Nuln Oil next - Once all over, then again when dry at each end of the cable to leave a brighter spot in the middle.
- I then highlighted across this middle section with Warpfiend Grey .
- Then a last smaller highlight with Slaanesh Grey .
- The white details I based first with Celestra Grey , taking my time to build the colour up over a few thinner coats than usual. Smoothness is key with white surfaces.
- I then relayered over all the white with Ulthuan Grey . Again, take your time over a few thin coats for the best result.
- Bring back Gryph-charger Grey and pull some cold shadow into the recesses, towards the bottom of the chin, into the temples and under the cheek bones.
- If need be, smooth out any hard lines with a glaze of Ulthuan Grey .
- Edge all the white with White .
- Prepare the green glowing areas by basing them with Corax White . I'll also thin the paint down and glaze around the glow to anywhere it 'touches'.
- Then I mix Moot Green and Lahmian Medium 1:6, plus a little water, then start covering the white areas. You want more saturation away from the center, so you want to strengthen this green around the outside circumference of the orb. I'll jump back and forth between this mix and White to mimic a glowing orb with a bright white center.
At this point I push the arms onto the body.
- Anything dark green gets a basecoat of Matt Black .
- The panels are then glazed with Caliban Green , concentrating around the edges to gives an effect of really dark green.
- These are then fully edge highlighted with Warpstone Glow , adding in freehand cracks where panels look too bare.
- A last point highlight of Moot Green rounds off the dark green.
I also repeat the glowing green steps on the vents over the arms, to make it look like the light is shining through.
- I'm going for a TMM pattern on the blades, so start by glazing Ironbreaker just over half way up each side of the blade, alternating the direction of the glaze across different the different surfaces.
- I counter this light glaze with Nuln Oil from the opposite way, and again from over half way up to blend the gradient.
- Lastly, the blades get and edge highlight with Stormhost Silver . Be sure to steady yourself for down the center, it's hard to highlight!
I'm a casual mini painter who's fallen into the tutorial space. Documenting my progress and recipes as I go!